Canon Lens 70-200 f2.8 L IS USM

Does any fellow PC Members have one of these and if so what do you think of it.

Cleo has the non-IS version and loves it except that she wishes she had spent the money for the IS. Carl has this one and loves it. There may be a couple of others. If you do a search you'll see the raves about it. I've personally been drooling for one for a while.

Jay told my story. If you are buying and can swing it get the IS. The lens is so sharper & crisp. I love it. If it was a man it would be THE perfect man.

Here is one or two from it:
http://img91.echo.cx/img91/976/medium70od.jpg (http://www.imageshack.us)

http://img236.echo.cx/img236/6780/medium1100gb.jpg (http://www.imageshack.us)

I thouht the non is was better . It also depends on if your shooting sports or people.

I thouht the non is was better . It also depends on if your shooting sports or people.

It would mainly be used for sport (cycling)

Brilliant shots above 8)

I only used for sports, if your shooting sunsets, the is is needed, is not, i would stick with the non.

I only used for sports, if your shooting sunsets, the is is needed, is not, i would stick with the non.
I would think you would want the IS for sports photography.

I only used for sports, if your shooting sunsets, the is is needed, is not, i would stick with the non.
I would think you would want the IS for sports photography.

I'm saving the pennies as we type :wink:

The is is useless for sports. If you shoot at 1/30th of a sec your subject if moving will be blurred. IS will help a little with hand holding, but not if your shutter speed is to slow.

The is is useless for sports. If you shoot at 1/30th of a sec your subject if moving will be blurred. IS will help a little with hand holding, but not if your shutter speed is to slow.

Oh - this has confused me now. Most say it's perfect for sport.

Is there an alternative to the Canon IS version :?:

Is there an alternative to the Canon IS version


Sure, it's the one I own.

It is the Canon 70-200mm f/2.8L USM. Runs about $400US cheaper. It looks the same & is the same weight.

Also, on the IS version, the IS can be turned off.

I own the IS version and it works fine for sports and moving objects. Of course, using a slow shutter speed on a moving object will result in motion blur...there isn't anything that will stop subject motion blur other than using an adequate shutter speed.

The IS has two modes. One is designed for standard use and one is designed for panning. It can also be turned off completely.

Many people over estimate how steady they can hold a camera but minimum shutter speeds for your average Joe Punter hand holding a camera are usually given as the inverse of the focal length in use. The word 'inverse' comes from the world of mathematics and as such is a bit scary to a lot of people but in this case it just means 'one over'. As in 'one over the focal length'. Here is a wee example of how easy it really is.

Using a standard 50mm lens the minimum shutter speed you should use will be 'one over 50', which is 1/50. To turn it into a shutter speed you simply call it a fraction of a second, like this; 1/50th of a second. The nearest shutter speed you can set is actually 1/60th of a second but you get the idea.

Using a 200mm lens the minimum shutter speed you should use will be 'one over 200', which is 1/200th of a second. So you would set your shutter speed to 1/250th of a second, that being the closest to 1/200.

The above guidelines are not cast in stone, and many will claim pride at handholding at much lower speeds (although I'm not so sure their pictures will stand up to critical examination) and others will still get shake at the recommended guidelines. My personal rule is to double the guideline or use a tripod.

With IS active, I have found that I am able to gain about 2 stops of light without detecting camera shake. One caveat is that you need to give the lens a second or so to stabilize prior to snapping the shutter fully for maximum benefit. Even tripod mounted, the use of IS comes into play as it will minimize the effects of mirror slap.

I tested both the IS version and the non IS version on my camera under identical lighting conditions before I bought my lens. They both returned equally sharp results throughout the zoom range at both wide open and stopped down apertures. The IS version retained sharpness at slower shutter speeds. I was able to capture an acceptable (not critically sharp) photo at 200mm and 1/15 sec shutter speed with IS engaged.

I own the IS version and it works fine for sports and moving objects. Of course, using a slow shutter speed on a moving object will result in motion blur...there isn't anything that will stop subject motion blur other than using an adequate shutter speed.

The IS has two modes. One is designed for standard use and one is designed for panning. It can also be turned off completely.

Many people over estimate how steady they can hold a camera but minimum shutter speeds for your average Joe Punter hand holding a camera are usually given as the inverse of the focal length in use. The word 'inverse' comes from the world of mathematics and as such is a bit scary to a lot of people but in this case it just means 'one over'. As in 'one over the focal length'. Here is a wee example of how easy it really is.

Using a standard 50mm lens the minimum shutter speed you should use will be 'one over 50', which is 1/50. To turn it into a shutter speed you simply call it a fraction of a second, like this; 1/50th of a second. The nearest shutter speed you can set is actually 1/60th of a second but you get the idea.

Using a 200mm lens the minimum shutter speed you should use will be 'one over 200', which is 1/200th of a second. So you would set your shutter speed to 1/250th of a second, that being the closest to 1/200.

The above guidelines are not cast in stone, and many will claim pride at handholding at much lower speeds (although I'm not so sure their pictures will stand up to critical examination) and others will still get shake at the recommended guidelines. My personal rule is to double the guideline or use a tripod.

With IS active, I have found that I am able to gain about 2 stops of light without detecting camera shake. One caveat is that you need to give the lens a second or so to stabilize prior to snapping the shutter fully for maximum benefit. Even tripod mounted, the use of IS comes into play as it will minimize the effects of mirror slap.

I tested both the IS version and the non IS version on my camera under identical lighting conditions before I bought my lens. They both returned equally sharp results throughout the zoom range at both wide open and stopped down apertures. The IS version retained sharpness at slower shutter speeds. I was able to capture an acceptable (not critically sharp) photo at 200mm and 1/15 sec shutter speed with IS engaged.

Thanx - I'm saving my pennies for the IS version again :wink:

Is there an alternative to the Canon IS version


Sure, it's the one I own.

It is the Canon 70-200mm f/2.8L USM. Runs about $400US cheaper. It looks the same & is the same weight.

Also, on the IS version, the IS can be turned off.

Thanx for the reassurance - Pennies being collected again :wink:

Ermm, I've gone and done it :shock:

I now own one :wink:

I'll let you all know the results 8)

congratulations on the purchase. I have to not think about it to avoid shorting out my keyboard with drool. :P